Sushi Iwa is arguably one of the most talked about sushi restaurants in Tokyo. The One Michelin Star restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo, has an elusive shop front and an even more “exclusive” reservation list.

It took us numerous attempts over a period of two years before we finally succeeded in scoring two seats on one of those weekday afternoons for lunch.

So, are they really worth all the hype? You will find out in a while.

One Michelin Star Sushi Iwa in Ginza is a small sushi restaurant that is famed for its fine omakase. Our first walk-in attempt two years ago was a complete failure. We were rejected right away and the staff was unapologetic about the restaurant being completely booked.

A few months later when we found ourselves in Tokyo again, we went down personally on the first day of our trip to make a reservation for about six days later; alas, we were rejected. This time round, the host told us to get our hotel concierge to make a reservation.

We thought the third time would be a charm. A fortnight before our trip to Tokyo, we got the concierge of the hotel we were going to put up at to make a reservation for us. Guess who was rejected again?

We will skip the subsequent failed attempts. Eventually, we managed to get a table for two this year but that was probably only because they made lives easier—all you have to do now is to simply call them up, then they’d send you an SMS containing a booking link where you can make a reservation via TableCheck.com, and voila!

Came the day when we were finally headed to Sushi Iwa for our sushi omakase lunch; we were ecstatic, to say the least. We were welcomed by the very hospitable chef and his team of servers. And we told ourselves it was going to be a good meal (well, this was to be argued), except that we weren’t too pleased to be sitting in the basement—which we later learned that it was meant for foreigners.

The main dining area is on the second level and is solely for Japanese. Discrimination, much? Is it fair to say this alters the entire ambience and experience? We’d like to think so.

After our appetiser of vinegared seaweed, our 13-course lunch began. Course by course, nigiri sushi were prepared fresh before our eyes. The chef sliced the fish with finesse and upon serving, he took the effort to introduce the sushi in English so that everyone could understand what was about to go into our mouths.

While the fish was fresh, what disappointed us was the lack of build up. You would think that a sushi omakase experience meant the flavours and intensity would build up. But at Sushi Iwa, little thoughts were put into the order of the courses and it was very apparent.

That said, some of the courses we had stood out.

Our favourite was the Shima-aji (striped horse mackerel). It was so very fresh, lightly flavoured with quality shoyu and a little bit of grated ginger; neither of the elements overpowered each other.

The Chutoro (medium fatty tuna) was definitely memorable for its fats really melted into a lovely, creamy taste on the tongue.

The Tai (sea bream) was aged for 2 days, hence retaining the flavours and boasted a slight saltiness of the ocean.

The Anago (conger eel) had a subtle smoky flavour to it but we wished there was a little more sweet sauce for it.

Our 13-course sushi omakase lunch at Sushi Iwa cost us ¥8,640 per pax. Would we go back again? Well, if our dining experience wasn’t confined to the “foreigners/ tourists” basement, we might overlook the part on the lack of flavours build up and give it another shot.

Sushi Iwa Ginza
8-4-4 Ginza, Miura Bldg. 1F, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061
Tel: 03 3572 0955
Tue to Sun: 12pm – 2pm, 6pm -10pm
Nearest Station: Shimbashi

There is a common misconception that Tokyo is a pricey destination to visit, what with souvenir shops by the dozens, and tasty food choices no matter where you turn. But saying that Tokyo is expensive need not necessarily be true.

We believe that you can always choose whether or not your trip to the land of sushi, ramen and all things kawaii is going to be painful to the wallet or not. Tokyo has many affordable yet impressive dining options within the city.

Ganso Zushi—a Kaitenzushi chain in Tokyo—is one such place. It is not a name as frequently mentioned when people talk about dining in Tokyo, but it is definitely one which serves fresh sushi at incredibly affordable prices.

The kaitenzushi chain has outlets all over Tokyo, so you will probably stumble across one of their restaurants while you are in the more popular shopping districts around the city. They are relatively easy to locate and can be found in popular shopping districts, so you do not need to go hunting for them.

Prices for their sushi starts from ¥130 (S$1.72) for plates with the more “regular” choices such as salmon and tuna. Subsequently, other plates go at ¥210, ¥262, ¥399 and ¥525. You will find all kinds of sushi in the likes of fatty tuna, sweet prawns, swordfish, and even uni (sea urchin)!

Photo Credit: bitterbubblegums

The freshness is not compromised despite it being a chain. English menus are provided in the restaurant, so you do not need to worry much about the language barrier.

A tip from the locals for all kaitenzushi chains would be to order straight from the sushi chef. The Japanese rarely ever take plates of sushi off the conveyer belt, simply because they might have been there for a while, and freshness means everything to the locals.

Ganso Zushi Shinjuku
160-0023 Tokyo Nishi-Shinjuku
Shinjuku-ku, 1-15-5
Tel: +81 03-5321-5775
Daily: 11.30am – 11pm

Just when you think the Japanese cannot outdo themselves, they prove you wrong. They have always been known for their creativity in innovations, and our recent visit to Kura Sushi in Ikebukuro proved that a sushi restaurant need not be just a sushi restaurant.

Kura Sushi might not seem like much to the unsuspecting passerby. But look out for it, and you will be rewarded with pocket-friendly ¥100 sushi. Yes, you read that right—¥100. That is less than S$1.50!

But eating has never been more rewarding. You also get to experience the gachapon machines within the restaurant! Here is why you should visit Kura Sushi And Go Crazy With ¥100 Sushi.

If you did not do your research before visiting Ikebukuro, you might just walk past Kura Sushi. After all, it is located in the basement of a boring office building, and it is far from the big shops and restaurants in the shopping district.

But if you take a closer look, you will realise just how crowded Kura Sushi is—and the crowd is mostly locals! Expect a waiting time of about 45 minutes to an hour.

Kura Sushi is not your ordinary kaiten sushi chain. Besides offering sushi at ridiculously cheap prices of ¥100 per plate, you also get to play with the gachapon machines stationed at every table. While on the conveyer belt, the plates of sushi make their rounds in little domes to retain the freshness.

After you finish devouring four plates of sushi, drop the plates into a little slot in the table and you will automatically have a go at the gachapon machine. Chances of winning this electronic gachapon are at random, so try your luck!

The standard of taste and quality at Kura Sushi, however, is not stellar. It is definitely not the best in Tokyo, but we believe that for ¥100 per plate, and for the added fun of playing with gachapon machines, it is worth that trip to Ikebukuro.

Kura Sushi
Toshima-ku, Tokyo Minamiikebukuro
1-19-5 G Building Minamiikebukuro 01 B1F
Tel: +81 03-5960-1810
Mon to Fri: 11am – 11pm
Sat and Sun: 10.20am – 11pm
Nearest Station: Ikebukuro

Read: Guide to Tokyo’s Best Affordable Sushi Restaurants.

As you take a stroll down Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, you will be greeted with a plethora of snack stations, eateries and coveted sushi restaurants. There are a number of big names here, one to look out for is Sushi Zanmai—a popular choice among both locals and tourists.

Despite being a sushi chain, Sushi Zanmai is still commendable. The ingredients are extremely fresh and each sushi is intricately made by the team of expert sushi chefs behind the sushi counter. You can even catch the chefs in action up close if you manage to snag a sushi counter seat.

Sushi Zanmai’s sushi platters are well loved because they are considerably inexpensive for the amount and quality. Our tummies were certainly satisfied after gobbling them up. Here is why you need to visit Sushi Zanmai.

From 7am to 4pm daily (Sushi Zanmai operates 24 hours), Sushi Zanmai offers special sushi platters and sushi bowls that you can enjoy from ¥1,500 onwards. It is extremely affordable, especially when you get at least 10 pieces of sushi.

We had the Assorted Deluxe 10 Best Nigiri Sushi Set (¥2,000) and there were ikura, uni, unagi, fresh shrimp and so much more. Every set comes with a bowl of miso soup.

Adding on to our sushi adventures, we went right for the most luxurious platter, the Sushi Zanmai Deluxe 13 Piece Set (¥3,000). The assorted sliced fish were magnificent and you get a palm-length unagi. More premium goodness includes uni, chuturo, tamago, hotate, and ebi.

Sushi Zanmai is a wonderful representation of the variety you can find in Tsukiji Market, and we like how it is not overly crowded nor packed with over-enthusiastic diners. We will definitely return again for all the fresh goodness!

Sushi Zanmai
3-11-9 Tsukiji | Tsukiji Square bldg1F
Chuo 104-0045, Tokyo Prefecture
Tel: +81 3-3524-9833
Daily: 24 Hours

Read: For more recommendations, read our Tokyo’s food and travel guides.

About the writer:
Cheryl is a staff writer for ladyironchef. She loves a good steak and an even better cuppa. She eats just about anything and everything. In her free time, she regularly starts on sci-fi or fantasy movie marathons.

DAY ONE IN TOKYO

#1 HAVE BREAKFAST AT ICHIRAN RAMEN

8am: There is no other better way to kick start your 4D3N holiday in Tokyo than a piping hot bowl of delicious Ichiran Tonkotsu Ramen. Hands down the best ramen in the World.

Iwamoto Building B1F
1-22-7 Jinnan Sibuya-ku Tokyo-to
150-0041
Tel: +81 3-3463-3667
Daily: 24 hours
Nearest Station: Shibuya

#2 VISIT THE MEIJI SHRINE

9.30am: Meiji Shrine is a stone’s throw away from the bustling Harajuku. Before entering the sacred site’s main hall, you are expected to wash your hands and mouth as a form of purification at the troughs. At the shrine, you can write down your wishes on a wooden plate (¥500) and hanging them on the divine tree.

1-1 Yoyogikamizonocho, Shibuya
Tokyo 151-8557, Japan
Nearest Station: Harajuku

#3 TAKE A STROLL IN YOYOGI PARK

12pm: Yoyogi Park in Shibuya is the best place to go to for a stroll after your shrine visit. Locals like to gather here with their friends for a picnic and there are always street performers to keep you entertained.

2-1 Yoyogikamizonocho
Shibuya, Tokyo 151-0052, Japan

#4 ARMS BURGER

1pm: You must be starving after a morning at Meiji Shrine and Yoyogi Park. Head to ARMS for one of the best burgers in Tokyo.

5-64-7 Yoyogi, Shibuya, Tokyo 151-0063, Japan
Tel: +81 3-3466-5970
Closed on Mondays
Tue to Sun: 11am – 10.30pm
Nearest Station: Yoyogi-Hachiman

#5 LITTLE NAP COFFEE STAND

2pm: After lunch, walk over to Little Nap COFFEE STAND – which is just around the corner from ARMS – to enjoy a cup of coffee. Established in 2011, Little Nap is a small coffee shop that is frequented by Tokyo’s creative community and the occasional tourists visiting Yoyogi Park.

5-65-4 Yoyogi Shibuya-Ku
Tokyo 151-0053
Tel: +81 3-3466-0074
Tue to Sun: 9am – 7pm
Nearest Station: Yoyogikoen

#6 VISIT TOKYO NATIONAL ART CENTER

3.30pm: Tokyo National Art Center is yet another beautifully designed building worth checking out. Spend your afternoon with your artistic self, and marvel at the splendid undulating glass façade and its three spectacular conical volumes inside.

Kokuritsu Shin-Bijutsukan
The National Art Center, Tokyo
7-22-2 Roppongi Minato-ku
Tokyo 106-8558 Japan
Nearest Station: Roppongi

#7 ROPPONGI HILL MORI TOWER

5.30pm: Currently the fifth-tallest building in Tokyo, Roppongi Hills Mori Tower is a 54-storey skyscraper. The observation decks at the Mori Art Museum on level 53 are perfect spots to see the city’s landscape from up above.

We strongly recommend you to linger till sunset so you get to witness the mesmerising transformation of Tokyo’s daytime cityscape into dazzling night lights.

6 Chome-11-1 Roppongi
Minato, Tokyo 106-6108, Japan
Nearest Station: Roppongi

#8 DINNER AT MAISEN TONKATSU

8pm: There are many tonkatsu restaurants in Tokyo, but ask anyone where the best tonkatsu place is and most will unanimously agree on Maisen Tonkatsu. The pork cutlets served here are extremely juicy and crispy – and are not greasy at all!

4-8-5 Jingumae
Shibuya-ku Tokyo, Japan
Tel: +81 3 3470 0071
Daily: 11am – 10pm
Nearest Station: Omotesando

DAY TWO IN TOKYO

#9 WATCH TSUKIJI MARKET’S TUNA AUCTION

3am: While watching the renowned tuna auction at Tsukiji Fish Market is for free, you have to be prepared to sacrifice your precious sleep. There are two auctions in the morning and only 120 visitors are allowed to watch this interesting activity. Guests are divided into two batches and it is recommended to arrive as early as 3am to secure a place.

Tsukiji Fish Market is set to relocate on 02 November 2016 so do pay a visit before they move! Do note that the auction is not open on a daily basis and it is best to plan in advance.

5 Chome-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo
Tokyo 104-0045, Japan
Nearest Station: Tsukiji Shijo

#10 FEAST ON THE FRESHEST SASHIMI AND SUSHIS

8am: Now that you are done with the tuna auction at Tsukiji Fish Market, it is time to feast on sushi and sashimi! Unfortunately, a minimum 3-hour wait is required to dine at the legendary Sushi Dai and Sushi Daiwa.

But Ryu Sushi is equally amazing and you could savour extremely fresh premium sashimi and sushis at very affordable prices. We really love Ryu Sushi.

5-2-1, Building 1. Chuo-ku Tsukiji Market
Tokyo Tel: +81 03 3541 9517
Nearest Station: Tsukiji/Tsukijishijo

#11 TRY THE YUZU RAMEN AT AFURI RAMEN

1pm: We hope you have sufficient rest after a morning trip to the Tsukiji Market! Everyone comes to Afuri Ramen for the famous yuzu ramen.

Every bowl comes with a half seasoned egg, a slice of grilled pork, bamboo shoots and seaweed. The ramen itself is firm and springy, just the way we like it to be. The egg has a runny yolk and is thoroughly flavoured throughout.

1F 117 Bld., 1-1-7 Ebisu
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03 5795 0750
Daily: 11am – 5am
Nearest Station: Ebisu

#12 CROSS THE SHIBUYA CROSSING

3pm: Rain or shine, the famous Shibuya is packed with people from all over the world; it is perpetual. When the traffic light turns red, watch in amazement as pedestrians cross the junction from all directions in an organised chaos. Well, you should join in the moving crowd!

Photography and videography enthusiasts can camp at the nearby Starbucks at Shibuya Tsutaya’s second floor with other like-minded hobbyists to capture this spectacular moment.

#13 SHOPPING AT SHIBUYA

4pm: Of course you have to do some shopping when in Shibuya! The sheer number of shops and malls will leave you spoilt for choice.

Not sure where to start? Shibuya 109 is the most popular destination. Expect kawaii Japanese fashion, classic workwear and quality staples. And the basement is a shoes heaven!

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#14 DINNER AT UORIKI KAISEN SUSHI

7pm: Uoriki Kaisen Sushi is an under-the-radar destination that not many people know about. Tucked away in Tokyu Department Store at Shibuya, we love how this hidden gem serves sashimi and sushi at the most wallet-friendly prices.

B1 Tokyu Department Store 2-24-1
Shibuya
Tel: +81 03 5428 3813
Daily: 10am – 9pm
Nearest Station: Shibuya

DAY THREE IN TOKYO

#15 START YOUR DAY WITH DESSERTS AT DOMINIQUE ANSEL BAKERY

10am: Dominique Ansel Bakery, the creator of the world-famous cronut, has an overseas outpost in Tokyo. Step inside the bakery and you will be enchanted by a wide variety of baked goods and desserts. Get your hands on the legendary cronuts and Frozen S’mores.

5-7-14, Jingumae, Shibuya-Ku
Tokyo 150-0001
Tel: +81 3 3486 1329
Nearest Station: Omotesando

#16 WANDER AROUND JAPANESE FOOD HALLS

12pm: Usually located at the basement of departmental stores, Japan’s food halls are like whimsical playgrounds filled with all sorts of Japanese products. We are suggesting you to fill your tummies up with the endless variety of snacks for lunch.

#17 EXPLORE TAKESHITA DORI

2pm: Takeshita Dori aka Takeshita Street is a pedestrianised street in Harajuku, and it is the quintessential Harajuku expeirence. The 400-meter street is lined with dessert kiosks, cute lifestyle shops and boutique fashion stores.

#18 TEMPURA AT TENDON TENYA

6pm: Tendon Tenya is a tendon chain that we really like. While it may not have the best tempura, it is cheap (¥500 for a very decent tendon) and satisfying whenever we want a quick meal.

4-4-31 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku
Tel: +81 3-5413-7983
Nearest Station: Meiji-Jingumae

#19 MARVEL AT THE TOKYO TOWER

8pm: Standing at 332.9 meters, the iconic Tokyo Tower is the second-tallest infrastructure in Japan. The communications and observation tower bears an uncanny resemblance to the world-famous Eiffel tower.

It is best to view the Tokyo Tower at night and watch it shine. Alternatively, head up to the observatory deck of Tokyo Tower if you have spare time earlier in the day and immerse yourselves in a 360-degree breathtaking view.

4 Chome-2-8 Shibakoen,
Minato, Tokyo 105-0011, Japan

DAY FOUR IN TOKYO

#20 EAT GYUDON FOR BREAKFAST

9am: Our favourite breakfast in Japan is gyudon (beef rice bowl). There are three places that we go to – Yoshinoya, Sukiya, and Matsuya. While they may be chains, rest assured that their gyudons are superb.

#21 SHOPPING AT GINZA

11am: Ginza is Tokyo’s most famous upmarket shopping district, and where you can find most of the luxury labels at. It is still worth a visit even if you are not shopping; it is bustling and lively and filled with very fashionable, well-dressed people.

For shoppers, you are probably going to buy big-ticket items here that are in hundreds and thousands. Best way to accumulate your miles, yes? With DBS Altitude Visa Signature Card, of course! 2 miles for every S$1 spent overseas. You are on your way to a business class ticket!

#22 SPLURGE ON A LUXURIOUS LUNCH AT SUSHI KANESAKA

1pm: Sushi Kanesaka is one of the finest sushi restaurants in Tokyo, if not Japan. There are three lunch Omakase options – ¥5,000, ¥10,000 and ¥15,000. A meal here is not cheap, but for the price you pay and quality you get, it is extremely great value.

5-64-7 Yoyogi, Shibuya, Tokyo 151-0063, Japan
Tel: +81 3-3211-5323
Daily: 11.30am – 2pm, 5pm – 10pm
Nearest Station: Otemachi

#23 AOYAMA FLOWER MARKET TEA HOUSE

4pm: The gorgeous cafe is said to be every girl’s dream high tea venue and we totally understand why. We were wonderstruck by the ethereal decors; think potted flowers, hanging weed and whatnot. Even beautiful plants could be found underneath the glass tables that we were dining at!

5-1-2, MinamiAoyama
Minato-ku Tokyo, Japan
Tel: +81 3 3400 0887
Nearest Station: Omotesando

#24 DINNER AT RED ROCK

6pm: Red Rock’s Roast Beef Rice Bowl – a MOUNTAIN of meat for just ¥880 (or ¥1,150 for the large portion). The value-for-money roast beef rice bowl lived up to all the hype.

And then it’s time to head back to the hotel to get your luggage and return home! Until next time, Tokyo!

3 Chome-25-12 Jingumae, Tokyo 150-0001, Japan
Tel: +81 3-6721-1729
Daily: 11.30am – 11pm
Nearest Station: Harajuku

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Tsukiji Market is the world’s largest seafood market, and it is one of the must-see places when you are in Tokyo. While you might not need any convincing to go there when you are in the city, we still want to share five compelling reasons why you have to visit Tsukiji Market.

Visiting the tuna auction

One of the highlights of Tsukiji Market is definitely visiting the tuna auction. That is, if you can get up early (the queue starts before 5am), and if you are lucky enough to get in – the auction is limited to 120 guests a day.

Sushi Breakfast at Tsukiji Market

A trip to Tokyo will not be complete without having sushi breakfast at Tsukuji Market. Sushi Dai and Sushi Daiwa are the most popular sushi restaurants at the fish market. However, people wait in line from as early as 6am, and the queue is easily two to three hours. Honestly, I feel that the other sushi restaurants at Tsukiji Market are just as good.

One place you can consider is Ryu Sushi. We had the Kiku Sushi Set (¥2,100) which comes with 7 pieces of sushi, and 6 pieces of sushi rolls, and a beautiful Chirashi (¥3,100). We were blown away by the quality and freshness of the sushi and sashimi.

Ryu Sushi
5-2-1, Building 1
Chuo-ku, Tsukiji Market, Tokyo
Tel: 03 3541 9517

Plenty of things to see and buy at the outer market

The outer market has many stalls selling fresh produce, tea, kitchen utensils and kitchenware, pickles, and food like tamago and unagi.

Tempura at Tenfusa

Another reason to return to Tsukiji Market again and again is to have tempura at Tenfusa. If sushi for breakfast is not your thing, go to Tenfusa, which is located along the same stretch as Sushi Dai and Sushi Daiwa. The tempura is well-prepared, crisp and not oily. The Tendon (¥1,100), and assorted Tempura Set (¥1,200) are very affordable for the quality.

Tenfusa
5-2-1, Building 6
Chuo-ku, Tsukiji Market, Tokyo
Tel: 03 3547 6766

Tsukiji Market is moving

Tsukiji Market will be moving to Toyosu in March 2015 to make room for the 2020 Summer Olympic Games. So, if you have not been to the market before, you must make a trip there before it moves to the new location.

Tsukiji Market is closed on Sundays, holidays and certain Wednesdays. The nearest stations are Tsukiji and Tsukijishijo.

For more recommendations, read our Tokyo Food & Travel Guides.