Seoul is back in action and with borders lifted, everyone is flocking to the well-loved South Korean city for a holiday. When in Seoul, cafe-hopping is a must. The South Koreans take their cafes seriously – from the coffee and cakes, to the decor and even merchandise.

One that is gaining immense popularity is Shinleedoga Cafe, a huge hanok-style cafe Hongdae near to Hongik University, and it is frequented by students and young locals. You’d never expect to find a modern hanok-style cafe right in the middle of Hongdae.

There is no lack of cafes within Hongdae but Shinleedoga Cafe stands out for its interior and vibes. The entrance is unassuming, you might just walk past it and brush it off, thinking it is another hanok where nobody stays. But follow the stone-lined path and you would be greeted by a mysterious dark alley. And this alley takes you to the cafe that sits within the hanok.

The cafe has a simple yet modern interior. Coupled with the historical exterior, it is alluring and exudes a cosy vibe.

There are both indoor and outdoor seating, and we took a while to take in the beauty of the place when we first stepped in. On the inside, seats are scattered in a random manner, and during the daytime, the sunlight diffuses through the full glass windows to warm the space up.

The cafe is equally charming during the night and it is a cosy space where you can hang out to enjoy a drink and dessert.

There are outdoor seating too, and in winter, there is a campfire where you can roast marshmallow.

The cafe also has a rooftop on the third floor where you can catch a glimpse of the city.

On its menu, expect a mix of caffeinated and non-caffeinated drinks, as well as a small selection of bakes. Check out the Black Sesame Latte that is highly popular! While the bakes were nothing life-changing, we thought it was really nice that we could purchase marshmallow on sticks to roast at the campfire during winter.

Shinleedoga Cafe Hongdae
20-12 Jandari-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Seoul is one of our favourite destinations in Asia and the city is known for its many distinct and lively districts where you will never get bored of the endless shopping, delicious local food and exciting things to do.

Ask any local where you should go when you are in Seoul and many will tell you that Hongdae is a neighbourhood you must not miss. It is not difficult to guess why Hongdae is one of the top choices—there is just so much going on!

From indulging in spicy Korean Army Stews and getting a tipple with your friends in a bar to street shopping and catching street performances, here are 12 Things To See, Do & Eat When You Are In Hongdae.

WHERE TO EAT

#1 BAN BOSSY BOUTIQUE

Boasting primarily pastel colours in pink, mint and white, walking into Ban Bossy Boutique is like stepping into Barbie-land. It is the perfect spot for afternoon tea with your girlfriends, complete with Instagram-worthy backdrops and an appealing array of cupcakes.

An afternoon tea at Ban Bossy Boutique looks something like this—munching on exquisitely decorated cupcakes and sipping on a pretty beverage. Yes, this is the life in Seoul!

19-22 Wausan-ro 17-gil
Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, Korea
Tel: +82 02 337 9896
Mon to Fri: 12pm – 10pm
Sat and Sun: 11am – 10pm
Nearest Station: Hongik University

#2 MUKSHIDONNA TTEOKBOKKI

Mukshidonna Tteokbokki is a fuss-free restaurant that specialises in Budae Jjigae and guests get to customise the stew with an array of ingredients. Every pot comes with tteokbokki (Korean rice cake) by default, and that is their signature.

Popular ingredients on the menu are seafood, bulgogi and cheese but if you are looking for the staples, there is always ramyeon and udon.

22 Hongik-ro 6-gil
Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea
Daily: 10am – 9.30pm
Nearest Station: Hongik University

Photo Credit: shawnongph

#3 SIMPSON TANG

Opened by a pair of Korean singers, Hwang Bo and Shim Tae Yoon, Simpson Tang—also known as Sim Seun Tang to the locals— is another popular Budae Jjigae restaurant to visit when you are in Hongdae.

The soup base is made from ox bones and mixed with red chilli paste and kimchi to produce a fragrant stock. Standard ingredients such as sausages, spam, cabbage and cheese are added into the soup.

30 Yanghwa-ro 16-gil
Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea
Tel: +82 70-4100-8318
Mon to Sat: 11.30am – 9.30pm
(Closed on Sunday)
Nearest Station: Hongik University

Photo Credit: Doma

#4 DOMA

Korean barbecue is not taken lightly by the locals and if quality is what you are after, Doma will not disappoint. Using only beef from Nebraska, diners can choose to get assorted sets with different cuts of meat or get individual meats such as Raw Prime Rib Meat, Bottom Sirloin Triangle and Seasoned Prime Ribs.

Grill them over hot charcoal and enjoy them with a mixture of savoury ban chan dishes!

33 Yanghwa-ro 16-gil
Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea
Tel: +82 03 3477 5111
Mon to Fri: 5pm – 5am
Sat to Sun: 12.30pm – 3pm, 5pm – 5am
Nearest Station: Hongik University

Photo Credit: OkDongsik

#5 OKDONGSIK

For those who are craving for a comforting bowl of gomtang (beef bone soup), OkDongsik is an up-and-coming restaurant that deserves a mention. Opened in 2017, the cosy restaurant only has counter seats where diners are able to watch the chef at work.

In order to achieve that full-flavoured beef stock that is satisfying till the very last drop, premium black pork meat and bones are simmered for hours in the kitchen. Have the clear soup with plump white rice and some ban chan at the side.

44-10 Yanghwa-ro 7-gil
Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea
Tel: +82 2 507 1424 9911
Mon to Fri: 11am – 3pm, 5pm – 10pm
Sat to Sun: 11am – 8.30pm
Nearest Station: Hapjeong

WHERE TO DRINK

Photo Credit: Playground Rooftop Bar & Cafe

#6 PLAYGROUND ROOFTOP CAFE & BAR

Playground Rooftop Cafe & Bar is where you will find the party animals—from foreign exchange students to hip young locals. The two storey bar has its own rooftop space where you can enjoy a beer or cocktail with your friends.

Otherwise, social butterflies will enjoy taking part in their weekly events—language exchange coffee meetings, international parties and cocktail parties are just some to name.

14 Wausan-ro 21-gil
Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea
Tel: +82 02 337 0774
Mon to Fri: 6pm – 11pm
Sat to Sun: 6pm – 1am
Nearest Station: Hongik University

Photo Credit: gogosallyyyy

#7 VINYL

If street bars are your thing instead, Vinyl is a quirky watering hole where colourful alcoholic drinks are served in transparent IV bags. Go there for their neat range of cocktails but it really is the hipster interior that will keep you lingering on for a chat with your traveling partners.

61-1 Wausan-ro
Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea
Tel: +82 2 322 4161
Mon to Fri: 4pm – 12.30am
Sat to Sun: 6pm – 2am
Nearest Station: Sangsu

Photo Credit: Robin’s Square

#8 ROBIN’S SQUARE

For the serious drinkers who are looking for craft cocktails in the Hongdae vicinity, leave it to the experienced bartenders at Robin’s Square to whip up your poison of choice. Nestled on the basement level of the Vans store, the unpretentious bar offers crafts spirits sourced from all over the world.

69 Wausan-ro
Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea
Tel: +82 2 6085 6421
Sun to Thu: 7pm – 4am
Fri to Sat: 7pm – 5am
Nearest Station: Sangsu

WHERE TO SHOP

#9 HONGDAE SHOPPING DISTRICT

Located near Hongik University, Hongdae Shopping District is where you will find the best buys at affordable prices that are kept low to attract students.

There are free concerts from time to time, and you can even pop by the Hongdae Free Market from March to November to see shoes, shirts, ceramic accessories and more handmade by Hongik University students.

Eoulmadang-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Nearest Station: Hongik University

WHAT TO SEE

#10 STREET PERFORMANCES

Walk down the streets of Hongdae and you will be greeted by many street artistes showcasing their talents. You will most definitely be impressed by the dancers who put up show stopping performances that do not lose out to professional Kpop groups. If you are feeling the beat, no one will fault you for grooving to the music!

Photo Credit: Bunny Cafe

#11 BUNNY CAFE

Animal lovers will find Bunny Cafe right up their alley. Home to 12 adorable furry bunnies of various breeds, visitors get to cuddle up with them and take lots of pictures for keepsake.

What is a trip to an animal cafe without personally feeding them personally? Simply top up W2,000 for a bag of tidbits and you get to feed the bunnies! Do note that you are only allowed to feed the bunnies with food purchased at the cafe.

136-10 Eoulmadang-ro
Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea
Tel: +82 2 333 1660
Daily: 1pm – 9pm
Nearest Station: Hongik University

Photo Credit: govoyagin

#12 NANTA THEATRE

Catch a live comedic performance at NANTA Theatre which offers excellent shows that will leave you laughing and crying at the same time. There are both cooking and acrobatic shows but the former is what’s most popular there. The best part? You don’t even have to understand Korean to appreciate the shows.

29 Yanghwa-ro 16-gil
Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea
Tel: +82 2 739 8288
Nearest Station: Hongik University

Reggae Chicken—a casual joint on the outskirts of Hongdae which specialises in Western-style fried chicken—looks very unassuming on the exterior and you might be slightly turned off by the narrow front as it looks slightly dodgy. We almost turned away but as night fell, the LED lights inside the restaurant lit up and familiar tunes from Bob Marley started playing. There and then, we were hooked.

With very limited seating, you will feel like you’re stepping into a cosy and humble fried chicken joint somewhere in Jamaica. This is exactly what sets it apart from the numerous Korean fried chicken joints in Seoul.

The menu here is extremely limited but this is when you know that they are really good. Specialising and excelling in fried chicken is not an easy task but Reggae Chicken has won the hearts of many.

You can only choose from 3 main chicken dishes—Reggae Chicken Original (17,000 Won), Reggae Curry Chicken (15,000 Won) and Kingston Wings (12,000 Won).

We went straight for their specialty—Reggae Chicken Original. The platter is good to share amongst 3 to 4 people. Besides fried chicken, the set comes with thick fried potato wedges and huge battered onion rings. Have this platter with a pint of beer and you are all set.

We were surprised by how insanely delicious the chicken was! The juiciness of the chicken coupled with the crispy skin was just magical. It is all in that first bite. No kidding, this was one of the best fried chicken we have ever had! Simple, wholesome but oh-so-delicious! The batter on the chicken seems to be lightly-seasoned buttermilk, but it gives the chicken so much flavour.

The whole experience of being in Reggae Chicken is worth visiting, from the Bob Marley tunes to the mellow vibe of the restaurant.

Reggae Chicken
147-19 Donggyo-dong
Mapo-gu, Seoul
Tel: +82 02-333-3438
Daily: 5pm – 2am
Nearest Station: Sangsu

Does the name ‘Ban Bossy Boutique‘ ring a bell? Those who have heard of the feminist movement in 2014 where the use of the term ‘bossy’ should be discouraged to describe women would probably know where this cafe got its inspiration from.

Boasting primarily pastel colours in pink, mint and white, walking into Ban Bossy Boutique is like stepping into Barbie-land. It is the perfect spot for afternoon tea with your girlfriends, complete with Instagram-worthy backdrops and an appealing array of cupcakes.

The beautiful cafe is tucked away on the third level of a building in Hongdae. The next time you find yourselves in Seoul, you know where to head to.

Ban Bossy Boutique’s dining area features sparkling marble table tops in white, turquoise and rose gold colours which stand out against the white walls while seating is on pastel coloured chairs. The large potted plants in the light-filled cafe offered some tropical summer vibes as well.

Go to the cafe early if you want to get the best seats, which are by the window. During the day, sunlight filters through the floor-to-ceiling glass panels so you have optimal lighting for your OOTD and food pictures!

Ban Bossy Boutique overlooks the bustling Hongdae street, which is frequented by locals, young students who study in the vicinity and tourists. For an unparalleled view, head to their balcony where you can watch the world go by.

An afternoon tea at Ban Bossy Boutique looks something like this—munching on exquisitely decorated cupcakes and sipping on a pretty beverage. Yes, this is the life in Seoul!

We love how the details of the sugar flowers of their Flower Cupcake (W7,500/ S$9.03) stood out. However, it is a pity that the cupcake looks better than it tastes as we found it to be slightly dry and lacking in flavour.

Their drinks options range from espresso-based drinks such as Latte (W5,500/ S$6.62) and Cappuccino (W5,500/ S$6.62) to juices including Detox Green (W7,500/ S$9.03) and Power Orange (W7,500/ S$9.03).

Ban Bossy Boutique
3/F, 17-Waoosan ro- 19-22
Mapo-Gu, Seoul, Korea
Tel: +82 02 337 9896
Mon to Fri: 12pm – 10pm
Sat & Sun: 11am – 10pm
Nearest Station: Hongdae

There are many one-pot goodness in the world – different varieties and all that – but there is nothing that has wow-ed us as much as Mukshidonna Tteokbokki Restaurant did.

We are going to have you read on, and you have to, because if you go to Seoul and you miss this, you are really missing out in life. Mukshidonna Tteokbokki Restaurant is completely our idea of comfort, and it is so affordably priced that you can eat it often.

Now, what exactly is the fuss that got us so excited? You are to find out in a bit.

Mukshidonna Tteokbokki is really a simple restaurant that focuses on serving stews in a communal pot, and the stew is up to you to customise. The base is basically the same stock, and you pick from an array of ingredients to go into your pot.

The result, no matter how you mix and match, is a hearty pot of sweet stew that bubbles with fragrance and has so much goodness inside. Every pot comes with tteokbokki (Korean rice cake) by default, and that is their signature.

There are Seafood and Bulgogi options, both at W4,500 each. Then, there are add-ons such as Vegetables and Budae, which are at W4,500 per serving too, and the latter is quite simply sausages and ham. Staples include Ramyeon (Korean instant noodles), Oodong (udon) and Dangmyeon (vermicelli)—all at W1,000 per serving.

And no matter what your combinations are, you totally have to add on the ‘Cheese’ (W2,000). Why do we say so? Because cheese adds texture to the stew and gives a savoury boost. And it just makes the whole pot a lot more gratifying when you scoop the ingredients and tear the shreds of melted cheese; cheese lovers will get it.

We loved ours with the Bulgogi better. Budae and Cheese too, of course. By the way, you might be confused by the two Cheese options the menu. The one that is priced at W2,000 is simply cheese, while the W4,500 option is just more cheese and tteokbokki.

So, how does this pot sound to you? One thing’s for sure – every time we are in Seoul, we will definitely have a meal at Mukshidonna Tteokbokki Restaurant. It has several outlets in Seoul—including Garosugil and Hongdae—but you should dine at the original outlet at Anguk-Dong.

Mukshidonna Tteokbokki Restaurant
19-1 Anguk-Dong
Jongno-gu, Seoul
Tel: +82 2 723 8089
Daily: 11am – 8.30pm
Nearest Station: Anguk

For more recommendation, read our food & travel guides to Seoul.