Lin Heung Tea House in Sheung Wan is one of the oldest teahouses in Hong Kong and it is one of the few Chinese restaurants that serves dim sum the traditional way.

An unassuming Chinese restaurant which offers both locals and tourists the most authentic Cantonese dining experience you can get, this restaurant is definitely a place that is worth visiting—if you are willing to brave the crowd.

Lin Heung Tea House has been in business since 1889. For first-timers, get ready to fight for your food when you get to Lin Heung Tea House. You’ll find diners swarming to a pushcart whenever it gets out of the kitchen, and some dishes can get sold out within minutes so you have to be quick on your feet!

This teahouse is almost perpetually crowded, but it truly is a must-visit destination when you are in Hong Kong. What else can we say? Lin Heung Tea House may not be the best option for the faint-hearted, but it sure is one hell of an experience.

Lin Heung Tea House
162 Wellington Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 25444556
Daily: 6am – 10pm
Nearest Station: Sheung Wan MTR Exit E2

Read: 15 Best Dim Sum Restaurants in Hong Kong that offer the quintessential dim sum experience.

Mido Cafe in Yau Ma Tei is one old-school cha chaan teng to visit when in Hong Kong.

Untouched by time, the cafe seems to be at a standstill. Its decor is as old-school as it can be; ancient Hong Kong still exists at Mido Cafe. Colourful wall tiles that are so tacky yet so nostalgic complemented with old tables and chairs; Mido Cafe is exactly how a cha chaan teng should be.

Our friends from Hong Kong have been urging us to make a visit and we finally did. And we finally understood why they have such high regards for this nondescript cafe that they grew up eating.

Mido Cafe sits on Temple Street, a very well-known street in Hong Kong infamous for its counterfeit goods and prostitution. We are not fans but we’d go to Temple Street for a taste of Mido Cafe’s famous French Toast.

Upon stepping in, you’d be transported back in time. The dimly lit space on level 1 is as ancient Hong Kong as it can go. You’d probably be directed to level 2 (accessible via a very narrow and steep flight of stairs) where most diners are gathered. And that is where you would be presented with the menu.

You have your usual cha chaan teng fares—from baked rice to noodles, sandwiches to classic HK-style drinks.

What you really have to try is the French Toast (HK$22). It is Mido Cafe’s most popular item and one that every first-timer to Mido Cafe must try. Two slices of soft bread coated with egg and deep fried to a slightly crispy texture then generously drenched in maple syrup, the French Toast definitely lived up to its hype.

The Bo Luo Bun with Butter (HK$15) on the other hand was a letdown. It was neither buttery nor came with a crispy tortoise shell top. We’d say to give this a miss.

Oh, you have to try the HK Milk Tea (HK$20). It was smooth with a fine balance of sweet and bitterness from the fresh tea.

Mido Cafe
63 Temple St, Yau Ma Tei, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2384 6402
Daily (except Wed): 9am – 9.45pm
Nearest Station: Yau Ma Tei

There is no lack of cha chaan teng in Mong Kok, Hong Kong. When you ask locals about their favourites, you’d get a myriad of answers—Hong Lin Restaurant in Mong Kok would probably be one of them.

We cannot agree more that it is one local eatery that you must visit if you are on the Kowloon side. Here’s what we loved from our visit, some of the must-orders and some misses.

Hong Lin Restaurant has a dine-in area as well as a take-out counter.

Let’s start with the take-out counter. The traditional way of displaying daily fresh bakes is visually arresting, to say the least. Of pineapple buns, egg tarts and soft breads, the shelves after shelves of golden brown beauties are simple yet comforting snacks if you want something to go.

The Egg Tart (HK$6/ S$1) comes with a flaky, butter case; the curd is smooth and subtly sweet just the way we like it. The Pineapple Bun with Butter (HK$10/ S$1.60)—also known as Bo Luo Yau—is one of the better ones that we’ve had in Hong Kong.

Let’s move on to the mains. There are aplenty for you to choose from in the likes of local favourites; think baked rice/ spaghetti, macaroni in soup, stir-fried rice and noodle dishes etc.

The Hoi Nam Chicken Rice (HK$60/ S$10) was not the most impressive rendition of the usual chicken rice you can find in Hong Kong. The boiled chicken came with skin that lacked flavours and the flesh was tough. But the totality of the set (includes a huge bowl of rice and a local-style hot soup) won us over. It was still pretty satisfying.

What surprised us the most was the macaroni set (HK$43/ S$7) that came with a large bowl of beef macaroni in tomato soup, buttered toast, scrambled eggs and a hot coffee/ tea. The sheer amount of food made it the most value-for-money set to order if you are feeling ravenous. The tomato soup was rich and thick; every sip was a joy. It came with many beef slices, and the side of buttered toast completed the very quintessential Hong Kong meal.

When at Hong Lin Restaurant, don’t forget to try the local-style Milk Tea too!

Hong Lin Restaurant
Hong Kong, Mong Kok, Tung Choi St, 143-145
Tel: +852 2391 8398
Daily: 6.30am – 3am
Nearest Station: Mong Kok

Shui Kee Coffee in Hong Kong has been around for decades and it is as old school, as traditional, as Hong Kong as you can get to a cha chaan teng.

You almost don’t see tourists dining there; just locals who want breakfast in the most comforting form they know, without having their wallets take a beating.

Where Hong Kong-style buns, sandwiches, French Toast, noodles and milk tea are concerned, Shui Kee Coffee does it in the most traditional no-frills way. You have to try it for yourselves if you want a true taste of Hong Kong-style breakfast.

Shui Kee Coffee sits within the food centre, on the third level of Sheung Wan Municipal Services Building. You wouldn’t “chance upon it” if you didn’t know about it and hunted for it. It is one of those places where locals in the know go to and one that they always return to for a quick, casual and affordable breakfast.

On the very straight forward menu, you have your usual Hong Kong-style beverages (HK$13/ S$2.16) such as Milk Tea, Yuan Yang and Almond Milk. Shui Kee Coffee is famous for its Hong Kong-style Milk Tea; you have to go for the Milk Tea, of course. We loved the cold one that came in an old-school glass bottle. It was silky with a subtle bitter after taste.

For breakfast, there is no better way to start your day in Hong Kong than with a bowl of Noodles (HK$24/ S$4). What is essentially just instant noodles is made better with two slices of luncheon meat and a fried egg; the locals sure love their “can tan mee”.

The Beef & Egg Bun (HK$14/ S$2.30) is a popular choice. Honestly, there is nothing special about it, but it is one of those typical breakfast items that locals grow up eating. Shui Kee Coffee’s rendition comes with eggs that are fried with chives for an elevated flavour.

What you must not miss is the Hong Kong-style French Toast (HK$23/ S$3.83). Shui Kee Coffee’s rendition is one of the best that we’ve had in Hong Kong.

The next time you find yourselves in Sheung Wan, make a trip to Shui Kee Coffee and eat like a local.

Shui Kee Coffee
Shop 17, 18167, Sheung Wan
Sheung Wan Municipal Services Building
Tel: +852 2850 8643
Mon to Sat: 8am – 6pm
Nearest Station: Sheung Wan